Stabilizer.

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Димонъ
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Post by Димонъ » Thu Jun 16, 2011 16:03

Another question :oops:
"sticking stabilizer the base in the middle, covered with something drying.
wait until it dries up."
You can stick an ordinary stationery glue and cover? Or varnish for nails colourless?Or is it better to cover with a thin layer of epoxy (nucleco or the entire surface of the dish) and wait for drying?
And then, sticking the rest of the stickers in order(without coverage or each, you still need to cover separately) and fill with epoxy with fillers?
Thanks for the replies.

20 meters :ay This is for universal processes? :)

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Логик
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Post by Логик » Thu Jun 16, 2011 18:08

Михаил_ wrote:PS I gather the version of 20 meters in diameter.....
This is what size Druse will need...(who about what, and lousy about a bath :))

Now the end of the world 2012 is canceled for sure...

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Post by Олег27 » Thu Jun 16, 2011 18:23

Druze Mikhail with his abilities I think will find. But with the help of such a device to stabilize it? Big eight now Michael will meet to discuss what is primarily in the "global scale" it is urgent to prosterilizovat :)

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Post by Логик » Thu Jun 16, 2011 19:51

Олег27 wrote:Big eight now Mikhail will be collected
big eight, essentially six. Where the owners say, there will be collected... then the leaders ie sixes and eights are plans to destabilize on a global scale...

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Post by Маг.нет » Thu Jun 16, 2011 20:38

That is why eight out of the zone of interest...
And task performed by druti there's enough to do, and the other elements, I think, and without the epoxy a "pancake" will cost just a bed "zones" separated pebbles "properties" fill... mozht then we will learn :wink: P-p-funny Stabilising garden work :):):) instead of anchors - the carrot, but other vegetables program...
Do not pay attention to my jokes, it's probably P 0.95 torknulo :oops:


Sincerely, MAG.no

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Post by Михаил_ » Fri Jun 17, 2011 18:30

MAG.there is approximately right. You need to look WIDER. Sometimes it helps to reread the materials on the stabilizer... Attentive.
To make mooooooolto stabilizer will fit any small twig-matched feet, and a large sandy beach. Well, if there is no beach, instead of twigs you need something more durable.In this and other things (anchors for example) can also be applied.
And after a while erasing the initial figure does not change location (it will be).

Each mandala is a matrix that can quickly be replaced. Druse and other things is a variant of one of many possible designs.

I'm certainly going to not a twig, and casts of 100 pounds (well below the wind blew :) ) but clearly not of the polymer.
For example cement is well suited with some impurities in the bargain.
I can't decide is it good or bad that people are slowly "velvet" on the potentials of home-made stabilizer and the ease of its production....

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Post by Стэллари » Mon Jun 20, 2011 16:54

Hello) :)
1) Michael, after making homemade paper version of the stabilizer I found out that I have Homo-and heterosexual are reversed compared to the picture You posted on openlogic. Tell me, is this acceptable? Myself I don't feel like working get the stabilizer or not.
2) Paper anchors and programs printed on b/W printer, I varnish. While images slightly smeared. You can use these pictures? Or after smearing invested in the picture and the meaning changes?

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Post by Михаил_ » Mon Jun 20, 2011 18:38

1. no, not acceptable
2. you can, but don't do it.

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Post by Димонъ » Mon Jun 20, 2011 19:53

Hello, Michael.
I have in preparation for charging the Druze broke off a small piece (the crack was). Whether it is possible as that to use in future work with the stabilizer?
Thank you.

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Post by Стэллари » Mon Jun 20, 2011 21:22

Thank You, Michael)
the stabiliser pity(( beautiful work...
by the way, anchors and programs on the stabilizer did not have, but near the stabilizer - a few pieces put) sort of worked a bit... but the stabilizer just does not felt) probably the program with anchors and without the correct stabilizer have some power)

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Post by Логик » Thu Jun 23, 2011 15:49

How to make large reinforced stabilizer.

Not for the first time read on this and openmagic forum, about bad experience in the manufacture of the stabilizer. Somebody switched the places of images, who else...
So I made a big stabilizer 45 cm tray.
Naturally wrong.

In my case I was misled by the words "stick" and "to cover with something dry". Since you used epoxy, for me, these words were synonyms and I have only used epoxy. I did not realize the fact that when epoxy is poured a layer of more than 1cm, the picture moves or tries to surface... now with the zones and borders on my stabilizer - God only knows.

I used epoxy ed-20 with no raging hardener etal-45M. Experience with it was not. When mixing in tanks more than a liter of glue very quickly polimerizuet, I have solidified within 15 min., added confusion in my actions and interfere with cold straight.

In General, I decided to make a small constructive addition to the design of the stabilizer. Detail penny, but will help easy to check the correctness of labels and to avoid displacements in a thick layer of resin. Michael wrote that he uses in the manufacture of the stabilizer stickers. We need labels to take nowhere. But there is tape. They can glue the pictures to verify the correctness of their application, then quietly pour the epoxy in a dish and add the necessary components.

So
reworked by me the user manual for the manufacture of reinforced stabilizer. Its nothing I have not made, only about Scotch and explaining details written by Michael in different parts of the forum.
1. select round shape (the simplest option is a sheet of paper, dish, etc.).
2. divide it into 6 equal sectors.
3. printed on the printer for the preview picture:
stabilizer base 1pc (the size of a saucer)
of NATO 1pcs
-natro, Homo, hetero for 2pcs.
for these and then for all anchors and programs recommended size 1DYUYM

sticking the tape stabilizer base in the middle, covered with something drying.
wait until dry.

sticking the tape to the middle of NATO
sticking two sectors heterosexual (attention !! order here and below IMPORTANT!!! start with NATO-heterosexual and then follow the order of the description)
sticking two sectors Homo, sticking two sectors Neutro. Placed the printouts around the middle sector (equidistant from the edge and center).

sticking tape ACC. with a picture of the border - chaos, law, stop, braking, creativity, development
sticking twilight, light, connecting

Fill the dish with something drying. (Remember, large amounts of the mixture of ed-20 and etal-45 polimerizatsiya quickly.)

to add to the center Druse amethyst (Druze can be pre-charge according to the technology used.well. 1.0 or 2.0. Charging Druze 2.0 you Can just put on Druse b.x2.x and leave for a couple of days. Charging is made 2.x, where the engraving is on the link.)
in the area natro add gray fat clay or humus (not to be confused with blue and other with clay)
in the area hereto you can add a wax, a paraffin wax, in small pieces
in the area of NATO try to add RF essential oil like rose, iris, ylang.
in Homo - do not add anything extra...
the Components to make a top in an already filled dish.
(pour carefully and slowly when filling the resin will begin to shift due to insertion of the material).

the composition should harden at the same time. If he peredaetsa is right, do not create the barriers.

After hardening re-apply the boundary 6+3 zones in the form of stickers.

Fabricate anchors and can start using the device.
Nothing seems to be missed.

Damn, saporiti not cheap components that I was looking for a few months... :evil: What kind of stabilizer turned x... knows.

Experience producing large stabilizer cost me about 3 thousand. to Say I'm furious is still very soft... :evil:

Such a cheap part, like Scotch, will help you save money and materials and your own nerves.<
Last edited by Логик on Mon Jun 27, 2011 12:53, edited 2 times in total.

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Post by Михаил_ » Thu Jun 23, 2011 17:23

Димонъ wrote:Hello, Michael.
I have in preparation for charging the Druze broke off a small piece (the crack was). Whether it is possible as that to use in future work with the stabilizer?
Thank you.
well, as usual an electrically charged object can be used either as a channel to 2.8, too

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Post by Хаст » Thu Jun 23, 2011 17:24

As I read about the stabilizer, I can not understand.. it Turns out that the epoxy is poured in 2 layers? The first layer on the stabilizer base, then acleaver the rest of the mandala and pour the second layer? Just in the topic of the Master TAO about the manufacture of the stabilizer, I didn't see the first layer. How?

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Post by Михаил_ » Thu Jun 23, 2011 17:37

Logik... thanks for the modified instructions... well... they are affected by the fact that some of the details of such a process, for example the fill of epoxy in a thick layer, many are not familiar with. And of course I relied on my experience, simply describe what you are doing :) hoping that adequate adaptation will be made in accordance with the conditions in which each works.
What You did by writing about the Scotch...

I still do ONE USEFUL ADDITION. When marking the food BEFORE applying the stickers, sign zone.
And not only from within but also from the bottom side. And check the spelling. From the bottom part that's why.
Of course the components added to the composition, making each area unique. But they can move (the dish should be perfectly still, however, in the process of hardening), and then it would be nice to know exactly the position of the axles... with the top sticker labels. As I fill the dish almost to the brim, the interior markings are often not visible and cause its counterpart (or at least one tag) from the bottom side is a good idea.

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Post by Мастер ДАО » Thu Jun 23, 2011 20:56

All the good time. Dear HAST and all other manufacturers Own stabilizator. Try FIRST Understand for YOURSELF it Principle The Stabilizer and Methods of its manufacture. AND BEFOREHAND and for God's Sake don'T RUSH HIM. Vesch well as purely STRONG AND POWERFUL, AND a mistake with a Nuclear bomb, especially in the process of its manufacture, may sometimes be disastrous :( too. I hope the comparison you all noted...I Say not unfounded, and from my own Experience. I will soon describe in his fourth message of the topic My first Stabilizer.Methods.Manufacturer.The results...
Everything else I have written further, I beg IMHO all qualities and quantities. And as I would say some CEP "Teach math.part" :wink: ...

First. EPOXY IS OPTIONAL. IT IS JUST AN AMPLIFIER AND NOTHING MORE. It is no coincidence, it's mentioned in description of manufacturing by Michael even after describing all of the amplifiers ONE OF the LAST.
Citigrou Michael: "1) additional steps to strengthen the device(Marked by me), namely to add to the center Druse amethyst pour the dish with the compound hardening for some time.... (the Marked) if it is deep, can not use ordinary epoxy resin - warm up and could burst if it's ceramic.... either a thin layer or a special hardener....Or use something else hardening.... can try such as alabaster.
in the area neitro you can add gray fat clay or humus (not to be confused with blue and other with clay)
in the area hereto you can dobavit wax, paraffin wax, in small pieces
in the area of NATO try to add RF essential oil like rose, iris, ylang.
in Homo - do not add anything extra...
the composition should harden at the same time. If he peredaetsa is right, do not create the barriers
."
IT AS AMPLIFIER AND NOT the MATERIAL used for MANUFACTURING BASES. By this I mean ALL THAT SVJAZANNO With the ASSEMBLY of ELEMENTS of the Stabilizer. And it works, FILL THAT ISThe AMPLIFIER ONLY, IMHO Beforehand, due to the UNION of ALL NUCLEONIC AND POSTED ITEMS (before the fill - IMHO), primary AND SECONDARY, INTO a coherent WHOLE, a CANDY bar or If you want a MONOLITH. AND NOTHING MORE. In any case, in our Rootworkitem manufacturer. I think the native Compound, "factory" :ay Stabilizer, dear Michael, of course, could not disclose all the obvious, including commercial and perhaps difficult vosproizvodit at home reasons. It is accepted and understood by All. And that means POURING ALL KINDS and Plans and Any quality Substances acre Native Michael know and owned, ONLY the AMPLIFIER PRINCIPALLY, Actual, And no it is NOT high QUALITY. I hope that I was able to clear up for everyone.

Second.Mistake to consider that to GLUE ALL the ELEMENTS To fill the Need it with Epoxy or something HEAVY. WHY? What a memorable Soviet Gigantomania. Yes, even on GIACCO 8) , God forbid, will be able to spread. Here we have all clearly explained. The FIRST... Sticking all advance on anything IMHO.. But for me it is more plastic, easy in application and use, and most importantly as easily remove.
Citigrou Michael: "glue the stabilizer base in the middle, covered with something drying.
wait until dry
."...
Tell me, can that not understanding :roll: ,- Where is the reference to Epoxy it. Which in itself is accurate crap, at least in the cooking procedure. And the use of technology is generally difficult, dirty, messy and most importantly INCORRIGIBLE. Because we all make mistakes and always. Therefore, I chose plastic glue for paper. So long and spent so much all the possible experiments with papers, materials of the composite stabilizer and so on. I wonder whether you think I have so much and so often that is REFINED and DETAILED. In all of this Stabilizer is better Safe :evil: than Sorry :roll: . From Become same of my chosen Paper plastic glue GLUE-2 to peel then do not teeth, in the case of other adhesives. A little prying something sharp he flies off, leaving no trace. While the tray is in my performance, even scratches are left behind. I spetsyalno checked and this scenario is also, in my second Stabilizzatore. Expect as in my above-mentioned topic, so here clear questions bc on the Wonderful Production thereof bi device. The experience is already enough. Sincerely Your Master DAO.

PS And here's something in addition. I myself, As the first Failed and is now a trial :? and second primary and is Now working :ay , stabilizers, spent time not less than two months in total(this is the preparation of all materials and the Assembly, and all subsequent prescription of it in My WORLD). And for every least a week on the Assembly itself, a sufficient drying performance and a clear step-by-step all phases of the production. In price performance as the first obosholsya not less than 4 thousand rubles, and the second even on some stones purchased from the Urals, has become much more expensive and came in all 8 thousand. And I'm not considered quite Priceless their LIFE time and so on. So dear this business,in all senses, to maturity such things. But Interesting and Beautiful. And most importantly, IT IT is YOUR WILL. AND ONLY YOUR. Native :o so to speak...<

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Post by Логик » Thu Jun 23, 2011 22:19

Михаил_ wrote:I still do ONE USEFUL ADDITION. When marking the food BEFORE applying the stickers, sign zone.

And not only from within but also from the bottom side. And check the spelling. From the bottom part that's why.

Of course the components added to the composition, making each area unique. But they can move (the dish should be perfectly still, however, in the process of hardening), and then it would be nice to know exactly the position of the axles... with the top sticker labels. As I fill the dish almost to the brim, the interior markings are often not visible and cause its counterpart (or at least one tag) from the bottom side is a good idea.
In fact, during markup of the tray I almost did. The tray has signed where and what to glue. Made a marking on the edges of the tray then to restore the border. Signed zone on the edge of the tray Homo, hetero, Neutro. Measured the distance from the edge of the tray on which there are stickers. I think I considered everything, but it turned out not...
Мастер ДАО wrote:Dear HAST and all other manufacturers Own stabilizator. Try to Understand FIRST exactly the Principle of the Stabilizer and Methods of its manufacture. AND BEFOREHAND and for God's Sake don'T RUSH HIM. Vesch well as purely STRONG AND POWERFUL, AND a mistake with a Nuclear bomb, especially in the process of manufacturing, can sometimes be disastrous too. I hope compare all noted..
Master of the TAOfrom the guru to go can not?

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Post by Димонъ » Fri Jun 24, 2011 4:12

Will share their experiences. Not to fool with gluing the mandalas (and to be able to glue) was used to print on the printer sheet with self-adhesive stickers (don't know how is called in Moscow for sale in Comus) standard format. On 1 sheet instead of all the stickers(squares inch), and 6+top 3(in the form of an oval with the inscription and 2 mandalas). Stab. base on the second sheet. Cut with scissors and then disconnecting from the basics to stick. Very convenient. For coating and drying stickers, used conventional silicate adhesives for paper. They also cut, after pouring the epoxy, the top of sticker(that was not erased), it is transparent. On the edge of the tray made the marks(noting the top and the other 5 rays), but not useful, because used Czech resin epoxy-520 and hardener 921 OP-transparent and does not boil.
By the way, the sheets of self-adhesive not to buy the whole pack you can try to buy in printing shops.
If someone would add rose petals-they pop up (large) so you can cut it with scissors. I think it will not ruin the device.

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Post by Мастер ДАО » Fri Jun 24, 2011 6:04

Great idea and tip dear Dimonwith YOUR self-adhesive stickers that. Well, just brilliant... and Recorded myself for the future Memoriz odnoznachno...Senks and Respect You :o ...

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Post by Логик » Fri Jun 24, 2011 10:43

In places where added oil stabilizer until the end and not dried out and not likely to dry up. 5ml standard vial poured the whole. It looks like it is too much even for 45cm tray.

Do not know what now with this stabilizer to do. Maybe in a fire? One stop druso loaded with b.W 2.8. And they have a General K. O. the Destruction of drusen can affect the bracelet?

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Post by Хаст » Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:35

Thank you Master of the TAO for clarification, the first stabilizer is going to do the other day. Going just SQLite of paper in PVA, and then the full version with drosou, saucer, etc.

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Post by Михаил_ » Fri Jun 24, 2011 12:52

1. to stop bickering with each other, and how there in the "Sorcerers" mentioned :) I don't know what I will do to you :) :) :) if need be I will bring order.... if someone does not like that - please just ignore and go ahead. On the forum there are different people and should get used to it, not to throw at each other.
2. Hast - layer actually should be one. A thick layer. Coverage of Mandal may be a thin layer, i.e. a mere surface coating (lacquer coated as well).
3. the destruction of the stabilizer TO the bracelet does not suffer, it is inherited and not the same. It actually ( on the stabilizer )can be simply a mental command to reset.
4. Logik - did not understand a bit, the only problem is that the floated label? how far? or no clear.... ? if it's a few inches - it is not fatal, if the displacement and mixing... it is better to destroy.

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Post by Логик » Fri Jun 24, 2011 13:03

Михаил_ wrote:4. Logik - did not understand a bit, the only problem is that the floated label? how far? or no clear.... ? if it's a few inches - it is not fatal, if the displacement and mixing... it is better to destroy.
Yes, the chip has sailed, for a few see the Full displacement and mixing according to my calculations shouldn't be.

And netanyhau oil on the surface what to do? Cover with a thin layer of epoxy?

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Post by Михаил_ » Fri Jun 24, 2011 13:13

1. then I'd leave... at all from normal must be a good feeling... if the zone has shifted, just when installing the anchors need to be more intuitive to work. You can leave it as one, in the manufacture of another, they unite and the new you can more accurately use the field.
2. Yes, cover top with a thin layer of oil is to soak in something.... well, for example in the wood chips still quite firm but very absorbent, then when casting it will not give the effect of a plasticizer.

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Post by Логик » Fri Jun 24, 2011 13:24

Михаил_ wrote:1. then I'd leave... at all from normal must be a good feeling... if the zone has shifted, just when installing the anchors need to be more intuitive to work. You can leave it as one, in the manufacture of another, they unite and the new you can more accurately use the field.
I haven't glued the top of the sticker. In difficulty, how to glue them on the lines where they were supposed to be to offset or not to glue?

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Post by Михаил_ » Fri Jun 24, 2011 13:29

along the lines... then you can cover even a thin layer is slightly equalize the field.

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